Australian Natural Adventures

  Tourism Australia Premier Aussie Specialist
Accredited Tassie, Northern Territory, NT Outback, NSW, Victoria & Queensland Specialists
Matai Fiji Specialist

 

 

AUSTRALIAN BIRDING & WILDLIFE TOUR

Fully escorted wildlife and birding tour Australia, North & South

October & November 2009

Australian Natural Adventures is pleased to announce our 2008 Wildlife & Birding tour to Australia. This fully escorted tour covers a wide variety of habitats within Australia to enable us to cover as many species of birds, mammals and reptiles as possible. In the north we'll explore the wetlands and escarpments of Kakadu, the tropical savanna just its south, and the rainforests, reef and outback of tropical Queensland. In southern Australia eucalyptus forest and heath on Sydney's sandstone will reveal a variety of birds, including lyre-birds, and we've included a pelagic trip here as well. The open forests and deserts of Victoria are a little-known cornucopia of mammals and birds, from koala to Major Mitchell Cockatoo. Across the border in South Australia we'll visit the home burrows of hairy-nosed wombats, and finally Kangaroo Island, a wildlife haven, will reveal her fauna. For those with a bit more time we've arranged a special 4 day extension to Tasmania.

 

We're still finalizing the details, and as soon as this is done we'll update these pages. We may change a little of the southern part in Victoria, but all the species covered will still be seen. However, here's what we have:

Date: October 29, 2009. This means migrants such as Buff-bellied Paradise-kingfisher, Common Koels, Rainbow Bee-eaters and Channel-billed Cuckoo will have arrived from Papua New Guinea and Asia. Activity among birds and mammals in the south will be at its peak, as it's the main breeding season, and there are two wins in Kakadu - it's the best time for wildlife and the crowds will be gone.

Duration: 26 days. We're not rushing this tour, as over 35 years of wildlife finding experience has taught us that the best way to find animals, and to see them well, is to spend time in their habitat. We're not the sort of tour that stops along a road, plays a tape of a target bird for a few minutes, then moves on. We've found that in forests especially birds move about, and it's often more productive to stay in one small area and wait for things to arrive than continually be on the move. What's not feeding by a creek now often is an an hour's time, and we want to have the opportunity to go back. It's also important with a group, even a small one such as this, to have enough time for all to see what we've found. We want everyone to see and experience the wildlife, so we have enough time to hang around after an initial sighting for all to get their chance, not just those who happen to be in front at the time. In open areas we might have to range a bit more widely, and have the opportunity to check out similar habitat in several areas before we find what we are looking for. So if you're the sort that gets antsy staying still, or spending time looking more thoroughly at a mammal or bird than just that needed for an ID and a tick, or doesn't like spending time on taxa that are not your primary goal, then this tour may not be for you.

Cost: about $8500 not including air, but virtually everything else save a few meals here and there. We're very dependent on exchange rates as well, and so the cost may change somewhat in either direction (but not once final payment is made).

Capacity: restricted to a maximum of 11 participants

Guides: fully escorted throughout by an Australian naturalist with additional expert regional birding/naturalist guides in each location. The regional expert will be the main guide in each area as they are in the field each day. All are selected for the birding ability and knowledge of mammals and reptiles, their overall naturalist abilities - we're not going to omit plants and geology - and ease of companionship. Information about our guides can be found on our Guide Profiles page.

Accommodation: good quality private bath accommodation throughout, chosen for appropriate location, comfort and ambience, and appropriateness (this means no 5-story marble and crystal atria, casinos on site or environmentally destructive practices, among other things).

Included: All accommodation, guiding, permits fees & taxes, hotel, restaurant & similar gratuities, transfers (including non-group transfers if you arrive or depart at different times to the main party), land and boat travel, most meals (we've omitted a few dinners in larger towns when there's a good and interesting selection of restaurants available, or we feel that participants could vary widely towards their dinner needs that night), snacks & water while in the field. In short, most expenses associated with the trip within Australia. We’ll also supply extensive information about Australia, a bird, mammal and wildlife list, and on arrival in Australia a photographic guide book to the mammals. We’ll also supply as much email or toll-free phone information as you want about the wildlife and nature of Australia as you prepare for the trip.

Not Included: International and internal air & associated fees and surcharges, domestic air within the US where required, passport fees (but your Australia visa is included), alcoholic and most soft drinks, items of a personal nature such as laundry, or travel insurance which is strongly recommended. As a full service travel agency unless you advise otherwise we will arrange all details of your air requirements from your home city to ensure a smooth fit with the tour program.

Itinerary
(species mentioned are just some of the likely ones each day)

Day 1 - Wednesday, October 29: US / In Flight
We depart our hometowns for Los Angeles, where we board our 10.30pm Qantas flight for Australia. Australia begins the moment you step aboard your Qantas flight. The Australian style is apparent—easy going, casually efficient and very friendly. Qantas is known for its excellent food and in flight service, so sit back and enjoy the hospitality, meal and a movie. *D

Day 2 – Thursday, October 30: Lost in Space
Day lost due to the International Dateline, but regained on the return journey.

Day 3: Friday, October 31: LIS / Sydney / Darwin
We arrive in Sydney, Australia at 7am, pass through customs and immigration, and transfer to the domestic terminal for our flight to tropical Darwin, arriving at 1.45pm. After settling in to our hotel we can look around Darwin - the Botanic Gardens are delightful, and/or do a little local birding. This evening we join the Darwin locals' habit of a meal of fish and chips while watching the sun set over the Arafura Sea. (*B,*L,D)

Day 4 - Saturday, November 1: Darwin / Kakadu
We head out early this morning to Fogg Dam Conservation Reserve, where we expect to see a range of wetland birds including Black-necked Stork, a variety of egrets, whistle-ducks, kingfishers, Blue-winged Kookaburra, and Brolga. A special search will be made for Rainbow Pitta in the monsoon forest. Fogg Dam likely has the highest concentration of the beautiful Water Python, due to the large numbers of breeding wetlands birds which provide a steady food source. We expect to see these, as well as dragon lizards, Green Tree Snakes, Agile Wallabies and probably Little Red Flying Fox. The prettily yellow-spotted Merten's Water Monitor may also be seen here. From Fogg we continue across the Adelaide River - we'll make a stop to look for Saltwater Crocodile and Mangrove Golden Whistler - and then the extensive Marrakai floodplains. As it's the dry season, expect to see hundreds of whirling Black and Whistling Kites seeking the grasshoppers and other small prey disturbed by small grass fires. The remaining water concentrates the wildlife here, and we'll stop at several billabongs where Magpie Geese and often gather in large numbers. Late afternoon finds us at Ubirr Rock, home to superb Aboriginal Rock Art, and one of the most scenic views in the park. Denise Lawungkurr Goodfellow, your guide, is an adopted member of the Aboriginal Kunwinjku people, and will give us her special knowledge and insight of the meanings and history of these paintings and the Aboriginal people. Resident here are Short-eared Rock Wallabies, living among the ledges of this sandstone outcrop; looking down over the edge usually results in nice views. B,D

Day 5 - Sunday, November 2: Kakadu / Pine Creek
We continue to explore Kakadu. We make an early start at Nourlangie, before the tours arrive, hoping to see the uncommon and often elusive Black Wallaroo, a sandstone escarpment endemic. There are several bird endemics also found here including Chestnut-quilled Rock Pigeon and White-lined Honeyeater. Once again Denise will be combining her birding expertise (she did write the book on Top End birds, after all), general fauna knowledge (she wrote a book on that as well) and her Aboriginal knowledge (yes, another book there as well). After Nourlangie we take the famous Yellow Waters billabong cruise, which always results in great, and often very close, views of a range of water and wetland birds such as Comb-crested Jacana, Radjah Shelduck and Little Kingfisher. Usually Saltwater Crocodiles float to the surface, and sometimes the smaller Freshwater Crocodiles. We continue south through Kakadu, seeking out the fauna found here. Hawks - Grey Goshawk, Brown Falcon - and parrots - Red-tailed Black Cockatoo, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Northern Rosella, lorikeets - are likely to be in our purview today, but we'll also be looking for other species, such as the small spotted tree monitor, and perhaps see dingo. Another monitor, the Sand Goanna, will likely waddle into view during the day; it's likely to race off on two legs at high speed once we disturb it, though. There's a good variety of interesting plants, unusual insects such as the rather tasty green ants, and the paperbark trees that are so photogenic in the evening sun. The end of the day finds out out of the Park at a small motel. Lights here may reveal insectivorous bats, and like the previous night we'll spend a bit of time outside with lights looking for nocturnal mammals and birds, especially the unusual Rock Ringtail Possum. (B,L,D)

Day 6 - Monday, November 3: Pine Creek / Darwin
The southern end of Kakadu and the Pine creek area are transitional areas leading to the drier country to the south. Here we find such beauties as the rare Hooded Parrot, amazingly colored Gouldian Finch, and the almost fluorescent Red-winged Parrot. This is also a good area for Antilopine Wallaroo, the largest of its group, and Frill-necked Dragon. Turtles should be seen in a couple of local waterways. We head up The Track towards Darwin, stopping along the way at some of Denise's favorite spots, and where serendipity provides us with sightings to follow up. Tonight is free to discover some of Darwin's cosmopolitan restaurants. (B,L)

Day 7 - Tuesday, November 4: Darwin area
Darwin is a rich area for wildlife in its own right, and today we benefit by Denise's long residence here to seek out the best areas. Mangroves and monsoon forest are two habitats of special interest, and we'll spend time in both of these. Collared Kingfisher, Red-headed Honeyeater, Great-billed Heron, Chestnut Rail, Mangrove Robin, Orange-footed Scrubfowl, and four species of flycatchers should be just of our day's bag. The harmless (and homely) White-bellied Mangrove Snake will be sought in the mangroves, and other reptiles looked for include the small Children's Python and Northern Water-dragon. We'll likely drop into one of several good sites such as, yes, the local sewage works, good for beauties such as Pink-eared Duck. For those a bit birded out there are good opportunities in Darwin to find quality Aboriginal and other locally made souvenirs. Tonight we share a "farewell to the Top End" dinner, recounting our time here and farewelling our guide and new friend, Denise. (B,L,D)

Day 8 - Wednesday, November 5: Darwin / Cairns / Daintree
We take a morning flight to Cairns (perhaps with a very short airport stop in Gove, far eastern Arnhem Land; we may see finches and honeyeaters here). After our mid-morning arrival in Cairns we meet our new regional guide, Jonathon Munro, and then check the Esplanade for waders such as Curlew Sandpiper, several dotterel species, Eastern Curlew, Terek Sandpiper, Great Knot, Red-necked Stint, and Fairy Tern. We then head north out of Cairns, along the often spectacularly scenic Captain Cook Highway, with its views over the Coral Sea. From the ecotonal forests around Cairns we notice we are moving into areas of heavier rainforest on the hills (it's mostly sugar cane fields along the road). By the time we reach the Mossman River the forest has reached the road in parts, and we drive up the river to take a walk in lowland rainforest, part of the Daintree National Park sector of the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area. This walk is good for Metallic Starling, often nesting in their communal site at the start of the walk, the beautifully colored and soft-voiced Wompoo Fruit-dove, Yellow Oriole, and Noisy Pitta. Large, brilliant blue Ulysses Butterfly, which look almost identical to South America's Blue Morpho, and the 8" wingspan of the yellow and green Cairns Birdwing Butterfly brighten our afternoon. We overnight in the small village of Daintree, where an after-dark walk might reveal Northern Brown Bandicoots, a ground dwelling marsupial with the shortest gestation period of any mammal, and several species of frogs. Frogmouths might be found, and the repetitive chopping of a nighjar may be heard. Uncommon but possible here is the black and white striped (and appropriately named) Striped Possum. (B,L,D)

Day 9 - Thursday, November 6: Daintree / Atherton Tablelands
We begin our morning with a wildlife cruise on the Daintree River. The Daintree river, though short, runs from the mid-level rainforest of the foothills through lowland rainforest before becoming tidally influenced as it gets close to the sea and enters mangrove forests. In most areas one or perhaps two species of mangroves are found; here there are over 20 kinds, from large trees to small shrubs. Our specialist boat guide will describe this important ecosystem, the nursery for life on the Great Barrier Reef and much of the coastal seas. We'll see the transition, and note the changing faunal species as well. Saltwater Crocodile, Spangled Drongo, Pied Imperial Pigeon, Great-billed Heron, Black Bittern, and Spectacled Flying Fox all make their home here. One of the most interesting animals here are the mud-skippers, small fish that have developed pseudo-legs that they walk across the mud on; they have also developed the ability to absorb oxygen through their skin and so can stay outr of the water for extended periods of time. Leaving the river we climb up the foothills, we we enter the higher rainforest at Julatten. We'll look for rainforest birds here, especially the rare and difficult to find Blue-faced Parrot-finch. Julatten is a very good area for the long tailed Buff-bellied Paradise-kingfisher and the huge Channel-billed Cuckoo, recently down from New Guinea, just two of our targets. A local creek will be checked for the rare and sometimes elusive Red-necked Crake. We then head south towards Granite Gorge and the southern Atherton Tablelands. Along the way we'll check the wires for Rainbow Bee-eater and White-breasted Woodswallow; after a few miles we'll notice how the rainforest is starting to disappear, then in a very short time much drier country, typical of the Australian outback, appears. With this change in habitat comes a change in species, and the possibility of both Wedge-tailed and Little Eagles opens up, as well as Pale-headed (Yellow-cheeked) Rosella, Squatter Pigeon and other dry country birds. We'll stop at a couple of probably dry creeks along the way to check for specialties, and keep an eye for Common Wallaroo and in the damper areas Pretty-face Wallaby. Lake Mitchell will give us an opportunity to top up on waterbirds. After checking the local golf course for Grey Kangaroo, one of the tee hazards here, we'll pass through even drier country until we arrive at Granite Gorge, a rocky outcrop with permanent water. This attracts wildlife from around the area, and has resident Great Bowerbirds. Our main goal here, though, is a population of Mareeba Rock Wallaby, by now well accustomed to visitors and easily approached for photographs. We're also likely to see Pied Cuckoo-shrike, Blue-faced and other honeyeaters, Red-backed Wrens, lorikeets and other parrots as well. We leave the Gorge and head back towards the rainforests of the Tablelands, stopping briefly at a small lake to look for Osprey and possibly rails. We'll probably see several Agile Wallabies, and note their somewhat different appearance over here in the east.

From this point on we're in the distribution of several unique rainforest mammals, some of which can be seen in the day, and we'll be keeping a careful eye for these. Jonathon lives in the upland rainforest, so is very aware of activity cycles, as well as likely being in this very spot in the last week or so - and pretty much everywhere else we travel here. There's no better way to find wildlife than to have up to date local knowledge. Our lodging is in the rainforest for the next two nights, and this evening we take advantage of this by searching for nocturnal wildlife near our lodgings. Pademelons, small rainforest wallabies, enjoy the grass around our cabins, Sugar Gliders will often visit, and Long-nosed Bandicoots frequent the forest edge, while the Northern Brown Bandicoots hunt for grubs in the open. (B,L,D)

Day 10 - Friday, November 7: Atherton Tablelands
After a morning bird walk likely to find Victoria's Riflebird, Common Koel, Eastern Yellow Robin, Golden Whistler and other rainforest specialties we sit by a rainforest creek to look for platypus; we have very good luck with this and have several excellent locations. We spend the day on the Tablelands, using Jonathon's local knowledge and expertise to seek out much of the wildlife found here. This area of the Tablelands has the most endemic species of all animal classes anywhere in Australia, and many of these are our targets. Musky Rat-kangaroos, the smallest and most primitive living kangaroo is common here, and if lucky we'll see the normally nocturnal Yellow-footed Antechinus, a small carnivorous marsupial that becomes partially diurnal now, its breeding season. Two endemic bowerbirds, the Tooth-billed Catbird and Golden Bowerbird are specialties here, and we'll visit a bower of the latter, over seven feet tall, where it will likely be quite active. Olive-breasted Sunbird, King Parrot, Spotted catbird, Top-knot and White-headed Pigeon, and the endemics Atherton Scrubwren and Bower's Shrike-thrush should all come our way. Tonight will be a major mammal event, as we'll spend several hours spotlighting for mostly endemic rainforest marsupials such as Green Ringtail Possum, Herbert River Ringtail Possum, Lemuroid Possum, Lumholtz Tree-kangaroo and Coppery Brushtail Possum. At the ecotone of the rainforest and Eucalypt forest we'll look for Greater Glider, Fluffy Glider and Common Ringtail. Rufous, Lesser Sooty and Boobook Owls are possible, and Barn Owl is likely. The ten inch long and quite bizarre Leaf-tailed Gecko, prehistoric looking Boyd's Forest Dragon, and Amethystine, Children's and Carpet Python are also possible. (B,L,D).

Day 11 - Saturday, November 8: Atherton Tablelands / Undara National Park
After most of the morning on the Tablelands we head southwest to Undara National Park a few hours away and a world apart from the lush rainforest. The morning and travel through the transitional zone should find us Mistletoebird, Chestnut-breasted Mannikin, Double-barred Finch, Scarlet Honeyeater and Australian (Richard's) Pipit. With a bit of luck Australian Bustard will pop up somewhere along the way. As we reach the dry country birds such as the gregarious Apostlebird, Torresian Crow, White-bellied Cuckoo-shrike, White-winged Triller and Galah appear. Common Wallaroo and Whiptail Wallaby may also be seen. We arrive at the Park mid to late afternoon, and settle in to our accommodation - converted train cars in the Australian bush! After a beautiful bush sunset and an Aussie BBQ around the campfire we'll take a short walk to look for wallabies and other mammals, and the monotonous toe of the Large-tailed Nightjar will likely send us to sleep. (B,L,D)

Day 12 - Sunday, November 9: Undara
Undara National Park was created about 20 years ago from a cattle property owned since the 1860s by the Collins family. Their property included the Undara Lava Tubes, the longest lava tubes in the world. The Collins far-sightedness led to them offering their property as a National Park, and since its inception in 1990 they have continued as the custodians of this wonderful place. You can still meet Bram and Gerry Collins when at Undara. The lava tubes were formed about 190,000 years ago when a volcano's lava flow followed a dry river bed. The flow extended about 100 miles, an exceptional length, and as the crust of the flow formed the inner lava continued, eventually creating a tube over 60 miles long. Several other tubes were also formed. The tubes are huge; in parts the roof is about twenty feet above our heads. Caves created by erosion and roof collapse provide important damp microclimates in this dry area, and some are important bat roosts. Snakes such as the small Stimson's Python and Brown Tree Snake take advantage of this steady source of food. (As it is the bat breeding season parts of the tubes are closed to protect the nursery caves at the time we'll be there.) The rocky nature of the tubes has protected small patches from fire, and a few rainforest remnant plant species can be seen hanging on to a precarious existence. Our stay here will include visiting the tubes, and exploring the dry Eucalypt forest for dryland and arid species. If it's a particularly dry year in inland Australia a surprising range of arid zone nomads can turn up at Undara. Tonight we'll spotlight further afield for Rufous Bettong, Spectacled Hare-wallaby (both small wallabies), Black Flying-fox, Northern Brown Bandicoot, Common Wallaroo and possibly Black-headed Python. Rufous Whistler, White-browed Robin, Grey-crowned Babbler, various honeyeaters, various thornbills, Striated Pardalote, Red-backed Fairy Wren will all likely be added to our list, and we'll turn a few rocks for geckoes and other reptiles. (B,L,D)

Day 13 - Monday, November 10: Undara / Cairns
After a morning walk at Undara we return to Cairns today, filling in gaps along the way. We've left dinner free tonight to try out some of Cairns many and often Asian Fusion themed restaurants. (B,L)

Day 14 - Tuesday, November 11: Michaelmas Cay and Great Barrier Reef
Today we are introduced to one of the natural wonders of the world—Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, a series of reefs extending for about 1,250 miles along the coast of Queensland, nearly to Papua New Guinea. On our trip today you experience two important features—a coral inner-shelf reef, and the sandy vegetated cay formed on one end. Michaelmas Reef lies about 22 miles off the coast just north of Cairns, with Michaelmas Cay on its southern tip. It is an important seabird rookery, which becomes apparent as you approach the mass of birds swirling constantly above the cay. The four primary species are Crested, Lesser-crested and Sooty Terns, and Common Noddy. Lesser Frigatebirds are usually present, occasionally Greater, as are Silver Gulls, Brown Boobies and Ruddy Turnstones. The cay, most of which is off limits, is a National Park within the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park. However, the birds are very tolerant of visitors and stand thickly along the beach, allowing us to approach them within a few yards and less. Immediately offshore in waist-deep water, the first of the corals can be seen. For those not used to snorkeling, there is no easier introduction—just walk up to your waist, and bend over. Brilliantly colored fish, giant clams, beche de mer and coral outcrops can all be seen. Easy swimming in shallow water brings us over coral “bombies,” heads of coral with their assortment of fishes, and hard and soft corals. Parrot fish glean algae from the coral, and small and medium predators search for food. Schools of fish twist and flash between the outcrops. An occasional sea turtle may be seen. You can also glide around the coral in a glass-bottomed boat, dry and with your ordinary cameras, while a marine biologist describes the species seen and some of the processes at work. There are guided snorkel tours. On your trip out, one of the marine biologists explains the development of this and other reef systems and gives us an introduction to many of the animal species that you see. Lunch is a tropical smorgasbord. In the afternoon you return to Cairns, under sail if the winds are right. Your transport to the reef is a 95 foot motor-sailing catamaran. There is time after your return this evening to visit Cairns, or you may wish to relax poolside at the hotel. Once again dinner is on your own; recommended is Ochre Recommended is Ochre Restaurant, specializing in native Australian bush foods. (B,L)

Day 15 - Wednesday, November 12: Cairns / Melbourne / Geelong
We fly the length of Australia mid morning to Melbourne, arriving at 2.25pm. We are met by our guide Paul Hackett, and head to Werribee, where we visit the euphemistically named Western Treatment Plant, otherwise known as the Werribee Sewerage Farm. However, this is actually a farm where treated water is used to raise cattle and some crops, and the normal trappings of sewage farms - smells and sometimes "look the other way" ponds - are nowhere around. This is Victoria's top rarity spot and one of it's best birding areas; it is one of Australia's top ten birding sites. As well as the ponds the farm runs down to the Corio Bay shoreline, where shorebird hides have been constructed. Up to 32,000 migrating shorebirds have been counted taking advantage of this area in summer, one of the highest densities anywhere. The Water Works not only allows birding here, but has birding lists and information on its website, and actively supports monitoring, research and conservation efforts. We expect to find a wide range of waterfowl here, especially the southern specialties such as Chestnut Teal, Blue-billed Duck, Australasian Shoveler, Freckled Deck, Hardhead, Musk Duck, Pink-eared Duck, and occasionally Australian Shelduck. Marsh Harrier is commonly seen over the fields, and Red-necked Avocet breeds here, as dopes Orange-bellied parrot, a rare and highly endangered species that our guide has been monitoring as part of a research program. (B,L,D)

Day 16 - Thursday, November 13: Melbourne / Coastal Victoria
Today is spent around the wetlands, heaths and scrubs of the Victorian coast. We're going to make a longish day of it, but there'll be time to rest up in the bus tomorrow morning during our drive to the desert. Like much of Australia this part of the continent is subject to variable weather patterns, which strongly affect the distribution of birds, so we'll be deciding close to the tour date the exact itinerary today to take advantage of the best wildlife and birding opportunities. We will be continuing our search for the Orange-bellied Parrot (unless we got lucky yesterday), and other wetland & coastal species such as Red-necked Stint, Fairy Tern, Pacific Gull, and Sooty and Pied Oystercatchers. Coastal heaths are home o the very rare Rufous Bristelbird, Southern Whiteface, Blue-winged Parrot, Chestnut-rumped Heathwren, Striated Fieldwren and Southern Emu-wren. Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoos are likely, as are both Bronzewing Pigeons. A selection of delightful robins, including Flame, Scarlet, and Rose will be on our search list, and perhaps the exquisite Pink Robin will put in an appearance. Swamp Wallaby lives here as well, Eastern Grey Kangaroos shouldn't be hard to find, and depending on our final stop tonight we'll look for Common Brushtail Possum and Victorian Ringtail Possum. Depending on our route we may also see our first Koalas, and several species of dragon lizards, including the large and well-known Bearded Dragon, and the foot-long skink called a Bluetongue may be seen. (B,L,D)

Day 17 - Friday, November 14: Coastal Victoria / Wyperfeld National Park
A longish drive this morning of about four hours as we head through the basalt plains of Victoria to the semi-arid mallee and desert country. While this will be an opportunity for a bit of a break and a rest, or for catching up on notes, our guides will be keeping an eye out for anything of interest; the restricted Long-billed Corella will be one such bird. We should arrive at the Park early to mid afternoon, and as it will be reasonably hot we'll time ourselves to match the animals' activity cycles. We usually find them starting to move about again by about 4pm (sunset isn't until about 8pm), and we'll concentrate on shaded areas and water holes for our afternoon searches. Wyperfeld is an area rich in reptiles, especially colorful dragons, skinks and geckoes - we rarely see snakes here - and these will complement our birding and mammaling. Depending on how the rains have been the desert could be rich with flowering shrubs and ground orchids, which will add an extra dimension to our time here. (B,L,D)

Day 18 - Saturday, November 15: Wyperfeld National Park
We have a full day here today, and tomorrow morning, and so will pace ourselves to take full advantage of the early morning and late afternoon, the times of peak activity. Once again the vagaries of the Australian rainfall will have a large influence on what's about, but most of our target birds breed here, so it's just a matter of finding them. However, at over 860,000 acres there's plenty of room to hide. Fortunately Devil's Pools provides (most of the time) one of the only reliable water sources, so many species visit here and it tends to concentrate the breeders somewhat. Both Western Grey and Red Kangaroos call Wyperfeld home, and they too have a fondness for waterholes in the evening, which also attract Spotted Nightjars after dark. Sand Goannas, up to five feet long, are not uncommon. Malleefowl, the rare and restricted megapode that uses sand and the heat of the sun to incubate its eggs breeds here, and we will see mounds and expect to see birds working them. Smaller birds common here include Masked Woodswallow, Red-capped Robin, and Varied Sittella, but parrots will almost certainly be today's highlight for most participants. The Park's list included Regent Parrot, Mulga Parrot, Purple-crowned Lorikeet, Little Corella, Bluebonnet, Elegant Parrot, and Mallee Ringneck, all colorful in their own right, but the large, white and pink Major Mitchell Cockatoo is hard to beat in the evening light. The world's second largest bird, the Emu, shouldn't be hard to find, and Spotted Harrier, Crimson Chat, Brown Treecreeper, Spiny-cheekd Honeyeater, Striped Honeyeater, Boobook Owl, Redthroat, Shy Heathwren, and Southern Scrub-robin are just a few of the other species found here. An night-time drive and walk should reveal several reptiles, including surprisingly colorful geckoes, and perhaps Burton's Legless Lizard, which looks like a small snake. Small carnivorous marsupials and native mice are also possible. (B,L,D)

Day 19 - Sunday, November 16: Wyperfeld / Portee Station
Depending on our guides thoughts and our sightings so far we'll either continue in Wyperfeld this morning or head a little way north to Hattah Kulkyne National Park, and drier area of mostly desert. This is probably the best place to find the rare Mallee Emu-wren, and also very good for Regent Parrot and Major Mitchell Cockatoo if we have no luck in Wyperfeld. We eventually head west, crossing the South Australian border and enter one Australia's oldest wine-growing region. tonight we share the hospitality of Portee Station, a working sheep station (ranch) whose owners have a keen interest in conserving fauna. Fine food and a range of excellent South Australian wines will grace our tables tonight. (B,L,D)

Day 20 - Monday, November 17: Portee Station / Kangaroo Island
This morning main event will be to visit a breeding area of the Southern Hairy-nosed Wombat. Unlike its eastern cousin, these wombats are primarily diurnal, and so can be seen during the day, although at this time of the year the early hours are preferred. They live in burrows in sandy areas, and Portee is an important part of the species' conservation in South Australia. We're on the Murray River here, Australia's largest, and riverine species will also be seen. From Portee we head south, continuing through wine country and taking advantage of stops along the way, to Adelaide, where we board our plane for a 20 minute flight to Kangaroo Island, one of Australia's premier wildlife areas. We'll stay in the thick of it, at the western end of the island, but also take time to watch Fairy Penguins return to shore at the eastern end, and may be able to see the thousands of shearwaters returning to the cliffs at sunset. (B,L,D)

Day 21 - Tuesday, November 18: Kangaroo Island
We spend today roaming around the island, looking for wildlife and enjoying the wonderful scenery. The southern edge of KI, as Kangaroo Island is affectionately known, is the last land before Antarctica, and the seas rolling north from that frozen continent have an uninterrupted reach before crashing against the cliffs. Winds and waves have created some interesting shapes, the most famous being the Remarkable Rocks, perched on the clifftop. Ki was separated from the mainland at the end of the last ice Age, about 9-10,000 years ago, and Aboriginal occupation appears to have ceased about 2000 years ago. This combination of events has led to a unique and often amazing tame fauna. Although there hasn't been time for full speciation, numerous species have separated to the subspecies level, and/or have noticeable differences in appearance from the mainland origins. Perhaps most noticeable is the Kangaroo Island Kangaroo, who's hind "foot" (actually toes) is much shorter than mainland Western Grey's, and the animal is obviously stockier and darker. Others look identical, for good reason; both Koalas, Platypus and Ringtail Possum were introduced in the 1920's in an effort to conserve these then rapidly dwindling species. The effect on these introduced species has been good, for them, but often terrible for this long isolated island and its native plants and animals. Over the next two days will endeavor to find all of the KI's special animals, including the aforementioned three. Cape Barren Geese, Echidna - KI is perhaps the most reliable place in Australia for this second most famous monotreme - Australian Sea Lion, Common Brushtail Possum, Tammar Wallaby, and Glossy Black Cockatoo, an endangered subspecies with a population of just 200 individuals, should all be found. At admiral's Arch the endangered New Zealand Furseal can usually be seen in the surf just yards from the boardwalk, and we'll walk among the Australian Sea Lions at Seal Bay. Heath Goannas are often credited with "saving" KI; when rabbits were released, as they were on the mainland, the goannas ate their young in the burrows with such gusto that the rabbits could never make a foothold, unlike on the mainland where they reeked havoc on wildlife, plantlife and agriculture.

One evening will find us at the beach, waiting for Little Penguins to come waddling up the beach to the burrows for the evening. Unlike the spectacle on Victoria's Phillip Island, this is a much more private and personal experience, without lights or loudspeakers. The other evening, or possibly the same one, we'll go spotlighting for some of the island's nocturnal mammals and birds. (B,L,D)

Day 22 - Wednesday, November 19: Kangaroo Island /Adelaide
We continue to explore Kangaroo Island today. Once again a variety of birds, mammals and reptiles will be our target. Among these will be Australian Shelduck, Australasian Grebe, Short-tailed & Fleshy-footed Shearwaters - we should see thousands of these streaming in to their nesting cliffs at dusk - Swamp Harrier, Nankeen Kestrel, Brown Goshawk, Common Greenshank, Bush Stone-curlew, Pacific Gull, Superb Blue Wren, Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoo, Little Wattlebird, White-fronted Chat, Crescent Honeyeater, Grey Currawong, and Red-browed Finch. In what must be one of the least welcoming habitats on the islands, the wind-dwarfed and stony vegetation of the clifftops we'll turn a few rocks looking for the skinks and geckoes that can be surprisingly abundant here. Eventually our stay here ends, and we head back to Adelaide early evening. Again we've left dinner open, as for most the latish arrival at the hotel, about 7.45pm, will decide the style of eating preferred. (B,L)

Day 23 - Thursday, November 20: Adelaide / Sydney
We fly to Sydney this morning, arriving about lunchtime. After transferring to our hotel in the historic Rocks area the afternoon is free to see Sydney's famous sights, all of which, including the Opera House and Harbour Bridge, and of course the harbor itself, are within an easy walk of our hotel. Also nearby are the excellent Botanic Gardens, home to a range of birds and a large colony of Grey-headed Flying Fox. Mrs Macquaries chair, not a chair but just a point of land at the north end of the Domain, parkland extension of the Gardens, offers wonderful views of the Opera House framed by the Bridge, with the sparkling harbour in the foreground. (B,L)

Day 24 - Friday, November 21: Royal National Park
We head south about 25 miles to Royal National Park, the second oldest National Park in the world, just seven years younger than Yellowstone. It's a Park of wet forested gullies, eucalyptus forest, sandstone ledges, coastal heath and beaches. This variety of habitats supports a rich fauna, and when the heath is flowering birds can be everywhere, especially honeyeaters. Some of the species we expect to find are both Eastern and Crimson Rosellas, New Holland Honeyeater, Pied Currawong, hopefully Southern Emu-wren, Shining Bronze-cuckoo, Green Catbird and Variegated Fairy-wren. Pilot Bird and & Rock Warbler, two specialties of the area, are also on our "hopefully" list, and the elusive Redthroat, Shy Heathwren, Southern Scrub-robin may also put in an appearance. Eastern Blue-tongue Lizard, Lace Goanna, Jacky Dragon, the large Eastern Water Dragon, and a variety of skinks from large Eastern Blue-tongue to small rock skinks are likely, and there's a possibility of several small snakes if the day is warm. Swamp Wallaby is the primary mammal likely, although Echidnas are also common and widespread. After Royal we continue another 35 miles south to Wollongong, in preparation for our final wildlife day tomorrow (B,L,D)

Day 25 - Saturday, November 22: Wollongong Pelagic Trip
An early morning today as we depart on a 7am pelagic trip to the near offshore waters. This area has an impressive pelagic list, and its rare for less than 20 or 30 species to be sighted. Generally in November the following species are considered definite - 100% average sightings, or probable - above 75%. Wandering and Black-browed Albatross, Great-winged Petrel & Providence Petrels, Flesh-footed, Wedge-tailed, Short-tailed, Hutton's & Fluttering Shearwaters, Australian Pelican, Arctic & Pomarine Jaegers, Australian Gannet, Silver Gull, Crested tern, Kelp Gull, and Wilson's and White-faced Storm-petrels. In all 75 species have been recorded on these trips off Wollongong. Dolphins may also be seen, but as we are right on the cusp of the Humpback season these have mostly passed by heading south, although they are still possible. Tonight we enjoy a farewell dinner, recounting the wonderful weeks that have passed by so quickly, and some of our favorite life birds, mammals or reptiles that we encountered. (B,L,D)

Day 26 - Sunday, November 23: Sydney / Los Angeles / Home City
We return to Sydney Airport this morning for our mid-morning flight back to the US this morning. Due to the International Date Line we arrive in Los Angeles about 7am this same day, in plenty of time to make our connections to our home cities. Some of us will continue on to Tasmania for our 5 day extension, or perhaps other parts of Australia. (B, meals in flight)

 

 

 

Thanks to guide Jonathon Munro for many of the photos used here, including the superb shot of the tree kangaroo, and most of the North Queensland ones; client Phil Aldred for the photo of Bruiser the koala; other friends and collegues for their; and the Northern Territory & Tasmanian Tourist Commissions and their photographer contributors for their respective images.